CONSIDER THE CABBAGE

Caraflex, Primero, Typhoon, Famosa. Four distinct dispositions — from succulent and buttery to hardy and everlasting. In the field, equally singular.

Caraflex, an elongated cone, best harvested young so you can slice the tender head into ribbons for dressing. Primero, almost silvery with leather-like outer leaves and a deep magenta heart, as steadfast in sauerkraut as for roasting. Typhoon is our winter staple, hardy in the root cellar when all but onions have disappeared, round and compact, most often ladled with a silky tahini. Famosa, a savoy with a ruffled edge, sauteed alongside tempeh in a shoyu butter recipe from Heidi Swanson's Near and Far.

On most mornings, we heap some version of fermented cabbage onto yogurt or cottage cheese. Later, over sauteed greens and roasted fish. Sandor Katz can help with how to harness the microbes you need to succeed here. We have an entire section of our kitchen filled with gurgling crocks.

Our obsession with cabbage was cemented during our twelve years living in Oakland. There, Russ Moore, of Camino, coaxed complexity from this humble head — as a soup with beets, as salad alongside sheep ricotta and olives. I first made Fergus Henderson's red salad for a small group of friends in our apartment just down the street from Camino, cabbage as center star, beets and red onion in supporting roles.

Gently saute young cabbage until wilted and dollop with a lively romesco sauce like the duo at Towpath instruct. Or roast it whole, braising every now and then, sliced at the table instead of chicken or lamb.

Southern slaw is an easy gateway, borscht worth a winter's evening.

PHOTOGRAPHY: MCKENZIE TAPLIN